After sailing for 12 days across the big Indian Ocean from the Maldives, we arrived on April 9th in the town of Salalah in the small country of Oman. We needed to order a new part for our automatic pilot, which had to come from Dubai and took 5 days. So the time was spend working on the boat and checking out the town of Salalah. We had nice local type meals, eaten in appropriate Omani style.
We were about 6 miles (10 km) out of the town of Salalah and taxi driver Ahmed became our regular driver.
On April 12 it was the last day to have C.J. with us. He had run out of time and he had decided that it was easiest to travel from Oman to Dubai to leave the area from there. But before he left we hired the taxi driver Ahmed to take us on a tour of the area.
Driving through and out of town we saw quite a few camels. Some seemed to be just wandering by themselves and even caused road hazards.
A bit out of town was a large herd of camels, according to Ahmed; they were a local food supply.
We drove over hairpin roads through the arid hills; the country reminded me of Arizona.
Ahmed showed us the plants from which frankincense is obtained, which apparently has been exported from here since biblical times.
The coast line was beautiful with large beaches and of course the gorgeous ocean colors.
We ended it with a nice lunch in a beach restaurant, where we were watching the local men smoking their hookah pipes.
At the end of the day we dropped C.J. at a hotel in town from where he would continue his travels. It sure was sad to say goodbye to our buddy, it will be quiet on the boat without him.
Max and I stayed 3 more days in Salalah, where we made friends with Mike, a British solo sailor. We helped him with some of his boat’s problems; he helped us with some of ours. Mike had just come down the Red Sea and he had had a series of misadventures. His boat engine had broken down and there was either not enough wind to sail or it had come from the total wrong direction. A stretch that should have taken 5 days, took a month and he had started to run very low on food and water. He gave us a bunch of info about the Red Sea, always usable.
Of course as always there were some repairs to be done. Going to shore had become a bit more difficult as our poor little dingy had had it, and the floor had come halfway out. We had run out of the glue to fix it, but luckily Max and I each have little paddle boats that we can still use to get to shore.
Our wind indicator had not been working well and I climbed to the top of the mast to fix it, a place that affords nice views over the surrounding area and the boat itself.
On April 15 we received the new part for the auto pilot and Max was able to install it without any problems. And luckily the GPS was working fine to help us with navigation.
The diesel tank was filled, we had enough water and there was plenty of food. So at 4:00 pm we continued our trip and sailed off toward Yemen.
The winds were calm, the sea flat and the sun was shining. So we had to motor. Until we would reach the city of Aden in Yemen, we were planning to motor the whole route anyway. This time it was not related to the weather, but to the fact that we would have to travel through an area, where boats occasionally get attacked by pirates, nicknamed: “blood alley” (only 1 – 3 %, not really high-risk). We had had conflicting advice of how to travel safely through this area. One option was to stay 10 miles off shore and if you were attacked you could radio for help by the Yemen coast guard (big question remains though, how long they would take to reach you). Another problem is that fishing boats in that area set out their nets, which can be as long as 5 miles. We had heard of some boats getting severely damaged that way. The other option is to stay 50 miles off where the pirates can not see you from the shore and the fishing boats don’t go. However it was not advised to go much further, because then you would get near the island of Socotra and the country of Somalia, where apparently the pirates are even worse than those from Yemen. We opted for the 50 mile off-shore route.
The first day we were still boating along the coast of Oman, where there were no problems.
For safety we ran with no running lights on at night and not even any lights on in the cabins or cockpit that might be visible. This then meant that we had to keep a much sharper look-out, because other boats would not be able to see us. To improve our vision we used night vision goggles, which create an eerie-looking green glow. But it was amazing how well you could see with them. During this trip there was no moon at all, which was welcoming in this case. However this picture was taken later with the goggles when there was a full moon.
On the second day we reached Yemen territory. In the morning I was on watch duty. I had scanned the horizon, no boats in sight and I went down below to the bathroom. When I came back up, there was a very fast wooden speedboat with 4 guys inside, about 100 meters (yards) from the starboard side of the boat, aiming full speed for the bow.
I screamed for Max, ran back up to the helm, turned off the auto pilot and steered the boat 180 degrees away from the speedboat. At this point they were only about 10 meters (30 feet) from the bow. Then finally did they slow down and started gesturing to us. We had no clue what they were trying to say, but we waved them away. Amazingly enough that is exactly what they did. Max felt that they had aimed for the bow, because at that point they could grab our boat easily and jump right on. I am not sure who or what these guys were, pirates or obnoxious opportunistic fishermen. Either way, we were happy not to find out what their intentions were. Needless to say, that after this incident the helm was not left unattended at any time for as long as we were in the pirate zone.
No further incidents that day, but the next morning 3 speedboats, each with 4 or 5 guys inside, sped towards our boat. We were both on deck and waved them away. They passed close to the bow and stern, but they made no attempt to stop. It sure made us nervous though. A few hours later, when I was on watch, I saw them again through my binoculars. They were around a large boat and it seemed that there was another small boat in the water as well. We were too far to be able to see what exactly they were doing, but I took some pictures through the binoculars.
We figured that they were not pirates, but probably smugglers and transferring goods between the boats. They were probably searching for the right boat when they passed us.
On the third day we truly entered “Blood Alley”. We were on very intense look-outs. There was a distress signal on the radio, followed by repeated messages from a boat, giving their coordinates and claiming that their boat was taking on water and they were going to sink. The message was in heavily accented English. We had read stories of pirates using this tactic to get boats to come to them. Other boats responded to them and advised them to notify the coast guard; no one showed any intention to go find them. Max and another boat came on the radio, pretending that they were U.S. Navy. At this time there was no response. Later a U.S. warship send out radio messages, again no response. You kind of worry during those signals, is there really a boat in trouble? Then you should be there to help them. But because they did not respond whenever there was a military radio response, we decided that it was a trap.
Amazingly after we entered the worst area, it became much quieter. There were hardly any speed boats at all anymore. But we were traveling in the freighter lane. On one hand this was comforting, if there was a serious problem, you might get help. On the other hand, how well are they watching? A few times we had to maneuver to get out of their way.
We were still running with no lights on at night, so the watch person continuously had to scan the area.
Early in the morning of the 6th day, we reached Aden (in Yemen). We were totally out of the pirate zone now. The entrance to the harbor was well-marked and we had no problems finding a good anchorage.
A bit out of town was a large herd of camels, according to Ahmed; they were a local food supply.
We drove over hairpin roads through the arid hills; the country reminded me of Arizona.
Ahmed showed us the plants from which frankincense is obtained, which apparently has been exported from here since biblical times.
The coast line was beautiful with large beaches and of course the gorgeous ocean colors.
We ended it with a nice lunch in a beach restaurant, where we were watching the local men smoking their hookah pipes.
At the end of the day we dropped C.J. at a hotel in town from where he would continue his travels. It sure was sad to say goodbye to our buddy, it will be quiet on the boat without him.
Max and I stayed 3 more days in Salalah, where we made friends with Mike, a British solo sailor. We helped him with some of his boat’s problems; he helped us with some of ours. Mike had just come down the Red Sea and he had had a series of misadventures. His boat engine had broken down and there was either not enough wind to sail or it had come from the total wrong direction. A stretch that should have taken 5 days, took a month and he had started to run very low on food and water. He gave us a bunch of info about the Red Sea, always usable.
Of course as always there were some repairs to be done. Going to shore had become a bit more difficult as our poor little dingy had had it, and the floor had come halfway out. We had run out of the glue to fix it, but luckily Max and I each have little paddle boats that we can still use to get to shore.
Our wind indicator had not been working well and I climbed to the top of the mast to fix it, a place that affords nice views over the surrounding area and the boat itself.
On April 15 we received the new part for the auto pilot and Max was able to install it without any problems. And luckily the GPS was working fine to help us with navigation.
The diesel tank was filled, we had enough water and there was plenty of food. So at 4:00 pm we continued our trip and sailed off toward Yemen.
The winds were calm, the sea flat and the sun was shining. So we had to motor. Until we would reach the city of Aden in Yemen, we were planning to motor the whole route anyway. This time it was not related to the weather, but to the fact that we would have to travel through an area, where boats occasionally get attacked by pirates, nicknamed: “blood alley” (only 1 – 3 %, not really high-risk). We had had conflicting advice of how to travel safely through this area. One option was to stay 10 miles off shore and if you were attacked you could radio for help by the Yemen coast guard (big question remains though, how long they would take to reach you). Another problem is that fishing boats in that area set out their nets, which can be as long as 5 miles. We had heard of some boats getting severely damaged that way. The other option is to stay 50 miles off where the pirates can not see you from the shore and the fishing boats don’t go. However it was not advised to go much further, because then you would get near the island of Socotra and the country of Somalia, where apparently the pirates are even worse than those from Yemen. We opted for the 50 mile off-shore route.
The first day we were still boating along the coast of Oman, where there were no problems.
For safety we ran with no running lights on at night and not even any lights on in the cabins or cockpit that might be visible. This then meant that we had to keep a much sharper look-out, because other boats would not be able to see us. To improve our vision we used night vision goggles, which create an eerie-looking green glow. But it was amazing how well you could see with them. During this trip there was no moon at all, which was welcoming in this case. However this picture was taken later with the goggles when there was a full moon.
On the second day we reached Yemen territory. In the morning I was on watch duty. I had scanned the horizon, no boats in sight and I went down below to the bathroom. When I came back up, there was a very fast wooden speedboat with 4 guys inside, about 100 meters (yards) from the starboard side of the boat, aiming full speed for the bow.
I screamed for Max, ran back up to the helm, turned off the auto pilot and steered the boat 180 degrees away from the speedboat. At this point they were only about 10 meters (30 feet) from the bow. Then finally did they slow down and started gesturing to us. We had no clue what they were trying to say, but we waved them away. Amazingly enough that is exactly what they did. Max felt that they had aimed for the bow, because at that point they could grab our boat easily and jump right on. I am not sure who or what these guys were, pirates or obnoxious opportunistic fishermen. Either way, we were happy not to find out what their intentions were. Needless to say, that after this incident the helm was not left unattended at any time for as long as we were in the pirate zone.No further incidents that day, but the next morning 3 speedboats, each with 4 or 5 guys inside, sped towards our boat. We were both on deck and waved them away. They passed close to the bow and stern, but they made no attempt to stop. It sure made us nervous though. A few hours later, when I was on watch, I saw them again through my binoculars. They were around a large boat and it seemed that there was another small boat in the water as well. We were too far to be able to see what exactly they were doing, but I took some pictures through the binoculars.
We figured that they were not pirates, but probably smugglers and transferring goods between the boats. They were probably searching for the right boat when they passed us.
On the third day we truly entered “Blood Alley”. We were on very intense look-outs. There was a distress signal on the radio, followed by repeated messages from a boat, giving their coordinates and claiming that their boat was taking on water and they were going to sink. The message was in heavily accented English. We had read stories of pirates using this tactic to get boats to come to them. Other boats responded to them and advised them to notify the coast guard; no one showed any intention to go find them. Max and another boat came on the radio, pretending that they were U.S. Navy. At this time there was no response. Later a U.S. warship send out radio messages, again no response. You kind of worry during those signals, is there really a boat in trouble? Then you should be there to help them. But because they did not respond whenever there was a military radio response, we decided that it was a trap.
Amazingly after we entered the worst area, it became much quieter. There were hardly any speed boats at all anymore. But we were traveling in the freighter lane. On one hand this was comforting, if there was a serious problem, you might get help. On the other hand, how well are they watching? A few times we had to maneuver to get out of their way.
We were still running with no lights on at night, so the watch person continuously had to scan the area.
Early in the morning of the 6th day, we reached Aden (in Yemen). We were totally out of the pirate zone now. The entrance to the harbor was well-marked and we had no problems finding a good anchorage.
There were 3 other sail boats anchored nearby. Immigration and customs did not give any problems. We stayed in Aden for 2 days, cleaning (and a few small repairs), shopping for food, diesel and water and exploring the area a bit. The pier was very nice looking.
Apparently in this same place cruise ships stop by quite a bit for just a day. We saw a few of them.
They herded their guests (1000 people) into buses and took them on a tour of the area. In the morning a group of school children with their teachers were sitting at the pier. When I asked what they were doing, the response was: “We are looking at the tourists!”
The area is poor, hot and dry,
but again the people were lovely.
Apparently in this same place cruise ships stop by quite a bit for just a day. We saw a few of them.
They herded their guests (1000 people) into buses and took them on a tour of the area. In the morning a group of school children with their teachers were sitting at the pier. When I asked what they were doing, the response was: “We are looking at the tourists!”
The area is poor, hot and dry,
but again the people were lovely.
I walked the streets by myself and people would start a conversation and offered help whenever they thought I needed it.
Some women called me over and let me take pictures of them.
I went to a bank to change some money. This particular bank could not do exactly what I needed. A woman, to whom I had talked for a few minutes, thought that I had money problems. She tried very hard to give me money and I had to convince her that I really did not need it. Later I took a local bus to another area and a man sat down next to me. He spoke excellent English and insisted on paying the bus fare for me. When I went shopping for food, it must have been the time of day that the women go shopping. There were a lot of them in the store and probably about 60 % of them were covered head to toe (including face) in black gowns. At the office where we had to buy diesel, I became friendly with one of the women workers there. She was dressed in black as well. I asked her if the material and color was not very hot and that it seemed that the men used a much cooler material and color. She told me that the cloth was light and cool, and let me feel it, it was very thin. Then she said: “The color does not matter, because during the day, when it is hot, we stay inside where it is cool. The men need lighter colors, because they do go out in the hot sun”. Men can have as many as 4 wives in these countries and we found that the birth rate is very high. What a way to make sure, that women stay covered and pregnant in their kitchens!!!
Some women called me over and let me take pictures of them.
I went to a bank to change some money. This particular bank could not do exactly what I needed. A woman, to whom I had talked for a few minutes, thought that I had money problems. She tried very hard to give me money and I had to convince her that I really did not need it. Later I took a local bus to another area and a man sat down next to me. He spoke excellent English and insisted on paying the bus fare for me. When I went shopping for food, it must have been the time of day that the women go shopping. There were a lot of them in the store and probably about 60 % of them were covered head to toe (including face) in black gowns. At the office where we had to buy diesel, I became friendly with one of the women workers there. She was dressed in black as well. I asked her if the material and color was not very hot and that it seemed that the men used a much cooler material and color. She told me that the cloth was light and cool, and let me feel it, it was very thin. Then she said: “The color does not matter, because during the day, when it is hot, we stay inside where it is cool. The men need lighter colors, because they do go out in the hot sun”. Men can have as many as 4 wives in these countries and we found that the birth rate is very high. What a way to make sure, that women stay covered and pregnant in their kitchens!!!
In a store, Max was dressed up in Yemeni style; it actually looked very good on him.
Max had stayed on the boat while I went shopping. It was dark by the time I returned and I could not get his attention to come to shore to help me with getting the groceries over to the boat. A man jumped in his boat and went to notify Max. This same man then let us tie our boat next to his in order to fill our water tanks and arranged with some friends to help us. It took quite a while to get all of that done and Max became quite friendly with them.
On the morning of the third day we left Aden. The weather was beautiful, seas flat with little wind, so we had to motor. We did not see dolphins as much as before, but we had a nice visit from 2 killer whales (orcas) who came up right next to the boat to have a closer look at us.
We followed the coast west
Max had stayed on the boat while I went shopping. It was dark by the time I returned and I could not get his attention to come to shore to help me with getting the groceries over to the boat. A man jumped in his boat and went to notify Max. This same man then let us tie our boat next to his in order to fill our water tanks and arranged with some friends to help us. It took quite a while to get all of that done and Max became quite friendly with them.
On the morning of the third day we left Aden. The weather was beautiful, seas flat with little wind, so we had to motor. We did not see dolphins as much as before, but we had a nice visit from 2 killer whales (orcas) who came up right next to the boat to have a closer look at us.
We followed the coast west
and then we had to turn north into the Red Sea. The Red Sea is quite infamous with sailors, the winds and waves can be ferocious at times, usually they come from the north (against you) and it can take a long time to get to the Suez Canal. In the southern end is the Strait Bab El Mandel, which is very narrow and a major bottle neck. There is an island in the middle: Perim, where you are absolutely not allowed to stop and the Yemen government prefers that you to pass it on the west side. The strait is also extremely busy with large freighters and therefore it has, what is called, a traffic separation scheme. Boats going north have to stay on the east side; going south they have to stay on the west side. It was dark by the time we reached this area. The winds had become strong from the south and the waves had grown to about 6 to 8 feet (2 to 2.5 meter). With these waves we were limited in the ways we could maneuver. We tried to stay as far right as possible in order to stay out of the freighters ways. But whenever we got closer to Perim, a boat from that direction would start following us. So we ended up having to travel right between the freighters, a very scary experience. I can compare it this way: Imagine that you are traveling in a very small and slow car at 25 miles/hr (40 km per hour) down a 2 lane road. In both lanes are very large trucks driving at 60 miles/hr (100 km per hour) and they do not want to slow down for you. You are also not sure how well they can see you and it is not possible for you to turn to the left or to the right. Twice a large freighter came right on our tail end and we had to notify them by radio to change course. One of them did not answer and we had to fire a flare to get his attention and to get him to go around us. It is not a pretty sight to see such a large freighter so close to your boat in the dark. The biggest problem was that if they had hit us, they would not even notice it! It was a very intense night and neither one of us had had any sleep.
The original plan had been to cross west as soon as possible and to sail the African coast along Eritrea and Sudan. However, it was impossible with these freighters, wind and waves to go anywhere but straight north along the Arabian coast. Arabia does not welcome tourists and their harbors are off-limits. By morning the wind was still strong and the seas were still big, but we had passed the bottleneck and we were out of the freighter lane.
The original plan had been to cross west as soon as possible and to sail the African coast along Eritrea and Sudan. However, it was impossible with these freighters, wind and waves to go anywhere but straight north along the Arabian coast. Arabia does not welcome tourists and their harbors are off-limits. By morning the wind was still strong and the seas were still big, but we had passed the bottleneck and we were out of the freighter lane.
We passed the Hanish Island group (Yemen) on our left and we decided to anchor in the lee side of one of the islands. We ended up at Hanish As Sughra Island. Apparently it was a military look-out point and no one was allowed on shore. There was still a strong and gusty wind, but the waves in this location were small. The island was very stark looking; dark rocky hills with very little vegetation, just a few shacks on the shore and on the peaks of the hills.
We anchored in a bay, where there were also about 6 fishing boats. The poor fishermen were also not allowed on shore and had to stay in their boats.
We anchored in a bay, where there were also about 6 fishing boats. The poor fishermen were also not allowed on shore and had to stay in their boats.
A few boats came by and we understood that they lived on islands about 20 ml (30 km) away.
They were hiding out from the wind and waves as well, friendly and polite people. One boat had an old man, who complained about stomach pain and diarrhea. We gave him some medicine and bread and they gave us a fish, which we cooked that night.
We ended up staying here for 3 days. The first day we were both exhausted and slept the day away. The next 2 days were spent giving the boat a good cleaning, resting, reading and watching videos (good ones). On the third day all the fishing boats had disappeared and did not come back, so we figured that the sea had improved.
On the morning of day 4 there were still strong, gusty winds, but it seemed that there were fewer whitecaps in the distance. We decided to leave as well. Because of the wind and the waves we were still forced to continue north, but slowly during the day everything became calmer. By evening we reached another island group: the Zubayr Islands. By this time the wind was calm and the waves only about 1 – 2 feet (30 cm) high and instead of stopping we decided that it was the right time to head north-west and to try to get to the African side. It caused us to have to cross the freighter lane going south, which created a few tense moments. But we passed it without problems and as we started sailing along the African coast, life again became very nice and peaceful. The moon had come back up and during the night we had visits from hitchhiking birds, who found our boat to be a great resting place
They were hiding out from the wind and waves as well, friendly and polite people. One boat had an old man, who complained about stomach pain and diarrhea. We gave him some medicine and bread and they gave us a fish, which we cooked that night.
We ended up staying here for 3 days. The first day we were both exhausted and slept the day away. The next 2 days were spent giving the boat a good cleaning, resting, reading and watching videos (good ones). On the third day all the fishing boats had disappeared and did not come back, so we figured that the sea had improved.
On the morning of day 4 there were still strong, gusty winds, but it seemed that there were fewer whitecaps in the distance. We decided to leave as well. Because of the wind and the waves we were still forced to continue north, but slowly during the day everything became calmer. By evening we reached another island group: the Zubayr Islands. By this time the wind was calm and the waves only about 1 – 2 feet (30 cm) high and instead of stopping we decided that it was the right time to head north-west and to try to get to the African side. It caused us to have to cross the freighter lane going south, which created a few tense moments. But we passed it without problems and as we started sailing along the African coast, life again became very nice and peaceful. The moon had come back up and during the night we had visits from hitchhiking birds, who found our boat to be a great resting place
The weather was gorgeous, although there was very little wind, and Max was worried about when this was going to end. I suggested that we would use the weather to our best advantage and to keep heading north for as long as it was good. Eritrea and Sudan are both very poor countries with lots of internal problems and we decided to pass them and not to stop there. Sail boats in this area stay in daily touch with each other by radio. Each morning at 0900 the boats call in at the “Red Sea Net” and they inform each other of conditions. From these radio transmissions we found out that conditions further north and closer to shore were quite rough. A lot of boats were hiding out in bays, waiting for the winds and seas to go down. But further off-shore conditions were much better. We had very good boating and we decided to stay 50 miles off-shore.
But now a new problem popped up. We had had to motor a lot during the heavy seas and the calms and we were starting to run low in diesel. We reached the border of Egypt without problems, but unless we would get good winds and we could sail, we would not have enough diesel to make it to Port Ghalib, our next port of call. Via the “Red Sea Net” we heard that 5 boats had been hiding out for several days in a bay by Port Bernice. We were about 70 miles directly east of them, but when we turned the boat, the wind blew from the west. We could finally raise the sails and turn off the engine. Accompanied by dolphins we were blown right into the bay, where we anchored next to the other boats.
We had a good night rest, early in the morning the wind was still blowing about 15 knots, and everyone decided to stay another day. The shore was quite barren, a tent and a few shacks nearby and further away there appeared to be a small village.
Apparently it was also a military outpost and we were told that no one was allowed on shore. So everyone stayed in their little spaces on their own boats and had frequent conversations with each other by radio. It was a nice relaxing day, a little cleaning, repairing, reading, and starting to write this story. I wanted to go snorkeling, but the boat was surrounded by hundreds of jelly fish. They can give a nasty sting, so it did not seem like a good idea.
The next morning we woke up at 0530 am. Wind still!! At 0600 all 5 boats had had their coffee and anchors were being pulled. Including ours. We pulled the 200 ft. (60 meter) of anchor that we had put down into the 50 ft (15 meter) deep water, but after half of it was up, it got stuck. O.k. you motor the boat back and forth a bit to get it unstuck. Right? Not in this case, because the anchor broke, right at the mid-way point. So I donned dive gear and wetsuit (to protect myself from the jelly fish) and I went under water. Luckily we had anchor coordinates on the GPS, which helped us to relocate it. The chain was stuck under some rocks and I worked hard to get it unstuck and to move the anchor to a sandy spot from where it would be easy to pull it up. But working this hard I forgot about the time and all of a sudden breathing became hard. My tank was empty and I had no more air. So, much faster than is advisable, I went back up to the surface, where it took me a few minutes to get my breath back. Max got the 2nd tank out, and down under I went again, telling myself to be more careful. Max had been able to maneuver the boat right above the anchor; he let the remaining chain down with a karabiner and a rope. I connected the 2 pieces of chain and I placed the rope around the anchor. I went up to tell Max to start pulling and back down to make sure that the chain would not get stuck again. It came up without any further problems. We were here right next to a gorgeous reef, full of a wide variety of coral; I still had time to enjoy the sight of it. Obviously Egypt deserves its name as a major dive destination. At 0830 we were ready to go. We were still concerned about our diesel supply, but other boats had told us, that they would give us some along the way if we needed it. Then on the radio the boat “Joanie D” came on. Their engine was running very rough and blowing lots of smoke. During radio transmissions between the different boat owners it was diagnosed as having a blown head gasket. They were still able to motor, but they were concerned that along the way the engine might quit all together. They were missing an essential tool, that was needed to fix it. "No worries, mate, Max has the perfect torque wrench for you". And the "Joanie D" had plenty of diesel for us. So a little way out we got together and exchanged the promised goods. In order to make sure that the “Joanie D” would be safe, we decided to stay together all the way to Port Ghalib. "Joanie D" took this picture of us under (partial) sail.
We arrived at our first Egyptian port of call: Port Ghalib with its brand-new marina at about noon time.
About 10 other sail boats were there and everyone was waiting to get checked in by immigration. Some of them had been waiting already since 0600. But the papers for immigration had to be taken to the airport 10 km away, and so the waiting was for all the boats to get in for the day. Two more boats arrived after us and finally at 1700 hours (5 pm) the papers came back and everyone was checked in.
Only then were we allowed to go to the yacht club for a more comfortable tie-on with running water and electricity.
The area was still under construction and nothing was actually finished except for a luxury diving hotel, where we could berth. Lots of large dive boats were parked nearby. 
The first day after arrival was as usually spent cleaning and fixing things and exploring the possibility for a visit to the Luxor temples and tombs from here. We were not the only ones and so, at 0400 am the next day we found ourselves on a 2-day tour with about 10 other yachties. Because of the attacks on tourist in past years, the Egyptians are very careful to protect their major source of income and bus trips are made in huge convoys under police protection.
The first day after arrival was as usually spent cleaning and fixing things and exploring the possibility for a visit to the Luxor temples and tombs from here. We were not the only ones and so, at 0400 am the next day we found ourselves on a 2-day tour with about 10 other yachties. Because of the attacks on tourist in past years, the Egyptians are very careful to protect their major source of income and bus trips are made in huge convoys under police protection.
It took about 6 hours of driving through hot and dry desert
to get to the lush valley of the river Nile, where the town Luxor is located.
Occasionally we passed little villages and small towns, where time seemed to have stood still. Many people in Egypt were very poor and their major source of transportation was the donkey.
Occasionally we passed little villages and small towns, where time seemed to have stood still. Many people in Egypt were very poor and their major source of transportation was the donkey.
We arrived in Luxor at about 10 am and right away we started to visit the sites.
The first one to see was the biggest, the 3000 year old Karnak temples.
Several people from the other sailboats in Port Ghalib came with us. I became good friends with the Spanish occupants of the boat "Cormoran".
Of course, a tour in Egypt could not be done without being taken to some "factories", who then gladly would sell you their product.
Haggling was a way of life in Egypt, and Max was getting good at it.
We stayed in a gorgeous 5 star hotel right on the banks of the Nile with great swimming pools, and delicious buffet meals served in their restaurant.
The Falukas (traditional Nile sailboats) made for a gorgeous sunset picture.
In the evening we were taken back to the Karnak temple by horse and buggy and had a light and sound show at the site, very nicely done.
The next day we were taken to several different sites. We visited the valley of the Queens, a tomb dedicated to a queen, who pretended for 20 years to be male, so she could be a Pharaoh, a position that was restricted to males.
Some of the local tour guides were trying to drum up some business.
In the "Valley of the Kings" were the tombs of the great Pharaohs. The inner walls were all decorated with the well known Egyptian pictures and hierographs, but all the valuables and loose decorations had been moved to the museum in Cairo.
In the "Valley of the Kings" were the tombs of the great Pharaohs. The inner walls were all decorated with the well known Egyptian pictures and hierographs, but all the valuables and loose decorations had been moved to the museum in Cairo.
Everywhere in Egypt security is tight, but there was time for talks with the female tourists.
Included in the tour was a boat trip on the river Nile.
where Max was requested to take the helm for a while.
At 1800 hours (6 pm) the huge convoy worked its way back to Safaga again. On the way the bus had a rest break in the middle of the desert, where I had my picture taken with some Bedoins, a very poor, nomadic people, that are some of the few that can eke a living out of the hot, dry desert.
Included in the tour was a boat trip on the river Nile.
where Max was requested to take the helm for a while.
At 1800 hours (6 pm) the huge convoy worked its way back to Safaga again. On the way the bus had a rest break in the middle of the desert, where I had my picture taken with some Bedoins, a very poor, nomadic people, that are some of the few that can eke a living out of the hot, dry desert.
They were accompanied by their donkeys, goats and camels.
I usually stay far away from any type of tours, but this one was very convenient and very well done. Being with my new friends from the other yachts sure added to the trip. It was midnight before we were back and the next day was spent getting the boat ready in Port Ghalib.
We left Port Ghalib on May 8 after filling up our tanks with diesel.
I usually stay far away from any type of tours, but this one was very convenient and very well done. Being with my new friends from the other yachts sure added to the trip. It was midnight before we were back and the next day was spent getting the boat ready in Port Ghalib.
We left Port Ghalib on May 8 after filling up our tanks with diesel.
At the moment (May 15) we are going through the Suez Canal. The story of the trip from Port Ghalib to here will have to be placed in the next blog. These stories and pictures take a bit of time to do, and that part is not ready yet.
This 3rd part of the sail trip sure was interesting. My friend Bob from Utah, who sailed for 7 years, had told me: "Sailing is 98 % boredom and 2 % pure terror". He might be right about the terror part, but so far the boredom has not been a problem for me yet. I still enjoy life at sea.
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